A Walker’s Paradise in Bannau Brycheiniog
If there’s one place that captures the wild beauty of Wales, it’s the Black Mountains. Found in the eastern range of the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park, the area is crisscrossed with trails. These trails suit every type of walker, from leisurely valley strolls to challenging ridge hikes.
Tucked in the quiet valley of Cwmdu, just north of Crickhowell, Cwmdu Campsite sits at the very heart of this walking paradise. From here, you can set out on dozens of routes. These routes showcase the region’s peaks, rivers, forests, and open moorland.
1. The Cwmdu Circular Walk – Local Charm and Hidden Valleys
For a gentle introduction to the area, the Cwmdu Circular Walk begins right from the campsite gates. This 5-mile loop takes around two hours and passes through meadowland, quiet lanes and stretches of ancient oak woodland.
You’ll cross the Rhiangoll River and pass the small Church of St. Michael and All Angels. You will also enjoy wide views of Mynydd Troed and Mynydd Llangorse. It’s the perfect route for a relaxed afternoon stroll and ideal for families and dog-walkers.
2. Mynydd Troed and Mynydd Llangorse – Twin Peaks and Big Views
Just a short walk or drive from Cwmdu lies one of the most satisfying circular hikes in the Black Mountains. This is the Mynydd Troed and Mynydd Llangorse loop.
This 7-mile ridge walk climbs steeply to the summit of Mynydd Troed (609 m) before sweeping along the ridge to Mynydd Llangorse (515 m). From the top, you can see across to Pen y Fan, Waun Fach, and the shimmering waters of Llangorse Lake.
The descent follows grassy tracks and quiet lanes, making it a varied and rewarding half-day route. Bring a picnic — the summit views are some of the best in Wales.
3. Pen Allt-mawr and Pen Cerrig-calch – Classic Ridge Circuit from Crickhowell
If you’re craving a full-day adventure, the Pen Allt-mawr Horseshoe is a local favourite. Starting from Crickhowell, just ten minutes from the campsite, this 10-mile circuit takes you over the two iconic ridges of Pen Allt-mawr (719 m) and Pen Cerrig-calch (701 m).
The path climbs gently through farmland before opening up to panoramic mountain views. On clear days, you can see the entire Usk Valley and the peaks of mid-Wales in the distance. The route loops back into Crickhowell via heather-covered slopes and old sheep tracks. It is a true mountain walk with no technical sections but plenty of elevation.
4. Waun Fach and the Grwyne Fawr Reservoir – The Roof of the Black Mountains
At 806 m, Waun Fach is the highest summit in the Black Mountains. The most scenic ascent begins from the Grwyne Fawr Reservoir, about 15 minutes’ drive from Cwmdu Campsite.
This 9-mile circular route follows a peaceful stream valley before climbing to the broad summit plateau. From the top, the views stretch across the Brecon Beacons, the
Wye Valley and even the distant Malvern Hills. The descent via Pen y Gadair Fawr offers a wild and open landscape rarely crowded with walkers.
This route captures everything that makes walking in the Black Mountains so special. It offers solitude, vast skies, and unspoiled beauty.
The walkers’ shelter shown above is off the beaten track at the very head of the Grwynne Fawr Reservoir in the Black Mountains; a beautiful place to walk to and a nice place to rest if the skies open!
5. Llangorse Lake and Allt yr Esgair – Tranquil Waterside Walking
For an easier, low-level option, the Llangorse Lake circuit is ideal. Wales’s largest natural lake is just 15 minutes from Cwmdu Campsite and offers a peaceful 4-mile loop with plenty of wildlife and bird-watching opportunities.
To extend the day, add a climb up Allt yr Esgair, the long wooded ridge rising above the lake. The views from its summit capture the full sweep of the Usk Valley and the Central Beacons beyond.
Trail Challenges and Events
For those who love a test, local organisers like Limitless Trails host endurance events throughout the Brecon Beacons and Black Mountains. Their Trail Ultra and TrekFest challenges attract runners and walkers from across the UK. These events offer marked routes that showcase the area’s rugged beauty.
If you’re staying at Cwmdu Campsite, these events make fantastic spectator days or opportunities to push your own limits in a supportive community atmosphere.
The Perfect Base for Your Walking Adventure
After a day on the trails, you’ll appreciate coming back to the peace and comfort of Cwmdu Campsite. With clean facilities, hot showers, and views straight up the valley, it’s the perfect place to rest tired legs. For recovery, book a sauna or cold plunge session at Cwmdu Contrast mini spa, located right next to the site.
Whether you prefer a short stroll or a mountain marathon, walking in the Black Mountains from Cwmdu offers something unforgettable for every explorer.
Plan your next walking holiday and book your stay at campingbreconbeacons.com.
